She Knows Best - Lifestyle Tips for Guys

Suits on a budget

by Arieanna on September 20th, 2005

English Cut - the blog of Thomas Mahon, Saville Row tailor, has some great advice on picking out a suit on a budget - for those of you who love to look great, and would love a tailored suit but know they are too expensive, this is some great advice. Expect to spend under $400 USD, but look like you spent far more.

Note: labels mean nothing in suits. Follow this advice instead:

1. Cloth.

Pick a classic, grey or blue worsted, pin or chalk stripe in classic colours… Make sure it’s wool, not polyester or any other weird-sounding fabric, the latter being usually just a disguise for cheap, synthetic rubbish.

2. Style.

Make sure you pick a classic, single-breasted, two or three button front. Never choose those dreadful four-buttons or nehru style collar suits… A double breasted is cool, but try to find a six button (two fastening , and only fasten the top button).

3. Detail.

Make sure that the lapel has a decent lapel hole. Straight and of a decent length. Ours are 1 & 1/8” long , you are unlikely to find that but still, the longer, the better.

Avoid at all costs a “keyhole lapel” hole… Always try to to get four buttons on the cuff and make sure they have button holes- I know they won’t be actual, functioning buttonholes at that price point, but they’ll look the part…

Make sure the pockets have flaps, and that there’s an out breast pocket. You often don’t spot this until you notice you’ve nowhere for your handkerchief.

4. Trousers.

There aren’t as many things to go wrong here, but if possible I’d try to avoid belt loops… Try to find the trousers with those side strap adjusters, fastened with a buckle or buttons (in the trade they’re called “Daks tops”).

Plain fronts are fine but if you want pleats, try to make sure they have four, and not two. Sadly, 95% of ready-to-wears have the pleats going the wrong way, i.e. reversed. I know our Italian cousins would argue the opposite, but on The Row our pleats go forward. It makes for a more flattering line on the leg…

5. Fit.

A ready-to-wear is a pattern cutter’s interpretation of which shape fits most people. A 40 Reg. from two different manufacturers can look totally different, so try them all on, and be honest with yourself… if you’re in between sizes, then get the larger size and have it altered for a small cost at a high street alteration specialist.

So, what’s important here? Fit. Pretend the labels and sizes don’t exist and just get what looks good on you. Go for classic lines, basic colours, and good material. In the end, details do matter, and the little ones here on the pants, the labels, and even the cuff do matter. Watch for the little stuff and you could find a gem for a great price.

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POSTED IN: Business Wear